Walking Lisbon: Hills, Riverfront and Parks on Foot

The Hills: Alfama to Graça and the Miradouros

Start at Terreiro do Paço metro and climb through Alfama's stepped lanes toward Castelo de São Jorge, then continue to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. The full stretch runs roughly three kilometres with around 150 metres of ascent, so allow two hours with stops. The reward is the classic tiled-roof view across the Baixa grid, best in late spring and early autumn when the light is soft and the trams are less crowded. Wear shoes with grip, because the calçada cobbles are polished smooth and the stairways between Largo das Portas do Sol and Graça are steep.

This route is not a loop, so plan the return. From Senhora do Monte, walk down to Intendente metro on the green line, or continue to the Feira da Ladra flea market at Campo de Santa Clara, which runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The later morning is better than midday, and the miradouros fill quickly at sunset between May and September. If you have only one hill day, choose this one over the castle queue, because the walk between viewpoints shows more of the neighbourhood than any single terrace does. Book a hotel in Alfama or Mouraria if you want to start at your doorstep.

Riverfront: Belém to Cais do Sodré

The flat riverfront is the easiest long walk in the city. Begin at the Torre de Belém and head east past the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Jerónimos Monastery, then follow the water through Alcântara toward Cais do Sodré and the Time Out Market. The full line is about eight kilometres and takes two and a half to three hours at an unhurried pace, with the river on your right the whole way. It is at its best from March to June and September to October, when the wind off the Tagus is cooling but not cold.

Trains on the Cascais line link Belém to Cais do Sodré in under ten minutes, so you can shorten the route whenever you like. The stretch between Alcântara and the 25 de Abril bridge is less scenic, with road works and docks, so many walkers skip it by boarding at Alcântara-Mar. Cyclists share the path, so keep to the pedestrian side. This is the route I would book a hotel near if you are travelling with children or prefer not to climb; the Baixa and Chiado are within fifteen minutes' walk of the eastern end, and the ferries to Cacilhas leave from Cais do Sodré for a cheap river crossing.

Parks: Monsanto, Estrela and Gulbenkian

Monsanto Forest Park covers the ridge west of the centre and is the city's green lung. The easiest access is by bus to the Parque Florestal stop, or a taxi from Marquês de Pombal in around fifteen minutes. Trails run from the viewpoint at Miradouro de Monsanto down to the Alvito and Keil do Amaral picnic areas, and a loop of four to five kilometres takes about two hours. Spring brings wildflowers and cooler air; midsummer afternoons are hot and exposed, so walk early. Signage is patchy, so carry a downloaded map or follow the marked pedestrian paths from the main entrance.

For a shorter, gentler park day, combine Jardim da Estrela with the Gulbenkian gardens in Avenidas Novas. Estrela is a ten-minute walk from Rato metro and has a small lake, a kiosk and shade; the Gulbenkian grounds, reached from São Sebastião or Praça de Espanha metro, are larger and quieter, with streams, lawns and a sculpture trail. The two are about two kilometres apart, so the pairing makes an easy half-day. Skip Monsanto entirely if you have only two days in the city, and give Estrela an hour instead. A hotel in Príncipe Real or Avenidas Novas puts both parks close by.